The Trip

May 12, 2001 11:55	Whitewater Canyon Campground. Starting point of our adventure. Just a few miles outside of Glenwood NM and the site of the famous Catwalk. Perfect starting place. Steve, Pierre, Scott, Dog?, Jim. Thanks for dropping us off Liz. Wish you could of gone.
May 12, 2001 12:08	First of many suspended catwalks and bridges across the first mile of the canyon. Gorgeous.
May 12, 2001 12:09
May 12, 2001 12:20	25 minutes into the hike and our first photo-op. Also a great excuse for a breather. Why is the first mile always hard?
May 12, 2001 12:25	Pierre taking the easy route over the mammoth boulders and icy-cold stream.
May 12, 2001 12:36	Ok.... 40 minutes into the hike and starting to get our legs under us. Top of the Catwalk.
May 12, 2001 13:04	Our destiny awaits us. Perfect weather, perfect trail.
May 12, 2001 18:31	5 miles up the steep little canyon and the first night of the Tarp Couple sitcom. This was the first of many tarp shelter designs...... and arguments about who had the best design for the locale. They might as well of been married. Very entertaining!
May 13, 2001 6:46	Breaking camp the first morning, eager to get on the trail. Guess I was brighter than suspected.
May 13, 2001 08:26	Sign: Grouse Mountain 5 Redstone Park 5 Whitewater Picnic Ground 6-3/4
May 13, 2001 12:53	Redstone Park. The premier 'beach' in which to bathe and lounge in the sun. One of my favorite spots in the Gila. Met a fella from Glenwood this morning. He was coming back from here. Appeared to be around 70ish? Only had a daypack. Here we were thinking we were making great time and in pretty good shape for old men. He RUNS Glenwood to Redstone and back as a day trip.... just for a little exercise. He would of gone further, but had a date this afternoon. Jeeeeesh.
May 13, 2001 17:10	The Deepfreeze campsight. We named it this on our last trip here. Coldest place I ever spent the night. Wind whistles off the snow and through this tight spot in the upper canyon. Brrrrr! This time it was very nice. No snow yet. Episode 2 of the Tarp Couple. Think I'll stick to my little insectile tent! This is the last campsite before starting up the switchbacks to Hummingbird Saddle.

Trip Diary Entry: Sunday, May 13 7:45pm Deepfreeze at the bottom of zigzag to Hummingbird. Only made 5 miles the first afternoon. Made at least 8-9 today.

Sitting in my sleek little tent while it POURS outside. Big thunder. Rained from 2 - 3:30 at Redstone. Perfect for a little nap. Then hit the trail with Steve, leaving the other 2 napping. Got to the 'Deepfreeze' camp at 5pm. Felt good walking for the first time. I've been lagging up till now - really struggling. Guess I'm out of shape and a few years older. But felt good this afternoon and am ready for Hummingbird in the morning. Enjoyed walking with just Steve this afternoon. Haven't taken many pics being so tired and then it seems like we've already covered this ground anyway. I miss Liz. Funny how 1 person becomes the center of your life and you feel lost w/o them. It's funny being over this trail again - like we never left in one way - and very satisfying to be back again and making such good time actually. Too bad Joel and Jimbob aren't here. So far no snow. Not really cold, although I'm sure we'll see both tomorrow. My packs a little heavy but getting better. I just feel kinda old. Guess I'd better get used to it!? In my mind I blame the time out of the gym on my broken foot - but I'm thinking that's just part of it. Rain has slowed to a drizzle (8:30pm) so I guess I'd better try to get some sleep. This pad is awesome! Should of done it years ago! Thought about Liz enough today. Used the thought of her urging me on to keep going and staying focused on foot placement and breathing. Oh - Fell down in the river today. First time that's ever happened! Fell face first so caught myself on my hands and knees. Kept my pack dry. But man was that water cold! Talk about shrinkage! Scared me - was lots more careful after that.

May 14, 2001 9:06	Finally! Snow! We're about 2/3 up the switch-back to Humming Bird Saddle. We laugh at the snow... the last trip here there was much greater quantities of snow than this. Easy!
May 14, 2001 10:22	So.. Hmmmmmm. We get to the top of the switchback and run into LOTS of snow. Hip-deep snow. Jim keeps us on the trail somehow. This was toward the end of the backpacker swallowing snowdrifts. Of course we had on shorts with no place to change and put on gators.
May 14, 2001 10:23	It took us about 2 hours to go this final mile. In places you would fall through the crust and plunge into a snow hole and hope you would hit bottom, and that it wasn't a snag or jagged rock. If you fell in past your waist.... kick foot holes in the side of your pit and climb out and search for a harder crust.
May 14, 2001 11:17	The end of the snow (for now). A great little spring about 1000 yards from Humming Bird Saddle. I must admit, this was one of the most anxious miles I've experienced while in the Gila. I'm really glad we turned around half way up the switch back 2 years ago!!!!!
May 14, 2001 11:17	Another pic... just to make sure we're really here.
May 14, 2001 14:55	Hummingbird Saddle. Gorgeous campsite. Drying out and warming up around our smoke fire. Note the red snow marker in the background. Third version of the Tarp Dwelling. We decided to stop early today. Don't feel like tackling any more snow today. And we're sure there's more on the other side.
May 14, 2001 16:24	Version 3a of Tarp Dwelling. After much arguing and pissing and moaning and several drizzling bouts of rain. Probably the best design of the trip. What are they cooking? SNOW!! They conquered it and now bygawd their gonna eat it!

Trip Diary Entry: Monday May 14 9:00pm Hummingbird Saddle

What a day!!!! Some of the toughest miles I remember. Zigzag up to where Steve and I turned around last time was fine. I felt good and kept my old pace. Then we hit the mile of waist deep snow that took us 2 HOURS of VERY COLD walking. Was no place to really stop and change clothes and put on gators. We were kinda stupid. Finally got to the saddle (no snow) and dried out and warmed up. Amazing. One guy would break trail and the others would try to follow in his footsteps. Very tough! At times both feet would fall through the snow and the only thing keeping you from falling farther was your crotch and your pack. Very, very, scary. But we persevered and helped each other out when possible. I'm thankful for my boots! Feet stayed warm and dry. Tomorrow looks like more of the same. So we will try it and decide if we should reroute or not. Jims poor dog is not doing well today. Looks like his tail is broken. Tomorrow is a decision point for sure. Time to rest up.

May 15, 2001 7:16	Sign: Hummingbird Saddle Spring 1000ft Redstone Park 5
May 15, 2001 7:16	Same sign....... different human. But definitely ready for the snow today!
May 15, 2001 8:12	Sign: ?????????? Anybody Remember? Great trail on the ridge. Only about 25 minutes of get-your-butt-wet-deep snow. The rest of the snow we encounter is hard packed and very walkable. I'm glad.
May 15, 2001 8:33	Steve and his lovely wife Olga came through here years ago in very deep snow. Apparently something else happened here that was important enough for Steve to demand a picture at this spot. Something about a bear??? Sure Steve.....sure.
May 15, 2001 9:18	Great look-out spot along the crest trail. Only Jim has enough energy to carry his pack up the incline.
May 15, 2001 9:18	You really can see forever in almost 360 degrees.
May 15, 2001 9:19	We could of sat here in the sun all day and just enjoyed being alive.
May 15, 2001 9:20	Here I am. Truly on the top of the world. It takes a few days for the civilized work-a-day world to slough off. It's a very soul-satisfying experience to get re-acquainted with that very real part of yourself that only flourishes here in the wilderness.
May 15, 2001 9:21	Pierre..... surveying all he sees!
May 15, 2001 12:17	This has to be my favorite scenery picture of the trip. I still recall the feeling of the moment. Steve and I sat here and ate lunch at Little Hobo Spring right on the trail while Jim and Pierre raced toward the summit of Mogollon Baldy. The feeling was perfect here. Timeless, serene beauty. Wordlessly sharing thoughts and feelings with an old friend. Time enough to enjoy. Truly a memorable spot.
May 15, 2001 13:26	The next 6 pictures are on the N/NW side of Mogollon Baldy just before topping out. It's amazing how far you can see. And not just in distance either.
May 15, 2001 13:26	We can see where we came from in these pictures, scars of old fires, and the wildness of the mountains that enthrall and captivate us.
May 15, 2001 13:26	You regain perspective here. How insignificant we are amidst this grandeur.
May 15, 2001 13:26
May 15, 2001 13:27	Steve and I take each other's pictures to preserve this moment. Although I know I will never forget it. A realization of a dream. An awareness of all we feel and embody of this wilderness. We found ourselves slowing our pace and stopping often on this last climb toward the summit. Not because we were tired, but because we did not want it to end. When we reach the top, the goal is realized. The trail becomes the trail home.
May 15, 2001 13:28	One of life's moments.
May 15, 2001 13:50	Steve. Elated at the top of Mogollon Baldy. Now this a view!
May 15, 2001 13:56	Steve gets so excited that he can't control himself and snaps this glorious picture of the cabin steps while positioning himself to take the next picture. Good job Steve.
May 15, 2001 13:56	Sign: Mogollon Baldy Lookout Elevation 10,778 Feet Still laughing at Steve.

Trip Diary Entry: Tuesday, May 14 9:30pm Snow Park.

What an awesome day!!!!! The most PERFECT backpacking day I've ever had! First mile was hard - more knee deep snow - but got through it fine. Today had my gators, long pants, and gloves. Very nice. We covered 9 miles of the most scenic, beautiful parts of the Gila. Truly awe inspiring!!!! We stopped at Little Hobo Spring for lunch (Steve and I) while the others went on. Hiking the afternoon with Steve and and enjoying the vistas at our own pace was perfect. Truly one of life's memorable moments. Took almost a roll of film. Hope the pics do it justice so I can show Liz. We met up with Pierre and Jim at the lookout and took more pics. Nice cabin and lookout, although empty. Then we walked on down to Snow Park for the night. Am looking forward to White Creek cabin to take a bath. Had to use towlettes to bathe tonight. Second night away from the stream. Hope they let us stay at White Creek - wolves and dog thing ya know. If so we will have a short walk down - probably get there around 10:30am and then loaf the rest of the day. I'm ready! I'm pooped and actually sleepy tonight. Big day - started at 10,000 ft, dropped to around 7500', then back up to 10,776'! But I guess I got in shape on the trail as I am doing fine now, no problems. I'm relieved.

May 16, 2001 08:44	The next day after camping at Snow Park. Snow Park. Beautifully stuck on the side of a huge grassy park with thick trees and a spring. But one of those places that just doesn't feel right. Gives you the heebie-jeebies. I think we all felt it. Got up and out early without even taking pictures. Maybe that's one of the reasons we named this section of the trail The Matrix. We walked for miles on this trail that always appears just as you see it in the picture. Makes you think you've done this before.... several times.
May 16, 2001 12:31	Almost off The Matrix trail!!! A hard, rocky, knee banging downhill to the West Fork. Sign: Rawmeat Creek 5 Mogollon Baldy 9 White Creek 1 3/4 Turkeyfeather Pass 8 1/4
May 16, 2001 17:29	White Creek Cabin on the West Fork. The Tarp Couple argued profusely before selecting their site and style of Tarp Dwelling. A comic relief to a long day. We had just got back from the Potholes which is a series of huge natural swimming holes connected by flumes in the solid rock. I can't believe I forgot my camera. And I was too lazy to walk the mile round trip back to get it. Next time.
May 16, 2001 17:29	We had a lot of socks to dry! And also one tired dog with a disjointed tail.
May 16, 2001 17:30	Steve's usual position this time of the day. Cozy in his abode.

Trip Diary Entry: Wednesday, May 16 9:10pm White Creek Cabin - West Fork Gila River

Well, we all misjudged the mileage. It was 9 miles to White Creek from Snow Park - not 5. Got here around 2:30. Pretty boring walk actually and trail was very rocky the last few miles. Feet are very sore from stone bruises. Saw two wranglers here that were amazed we were at Mogollon Baldy. Said they've tried twice to get there and couldn't do it yet. So there ya go! Went to the Potholes and bathed (YES!) and did laundry. Forgot my dammit camera. A beautiful place with pools of water 50' - 60' across and who knows how deep. Several giant pools connected by waterfalls through solid rock. I know Liz would love it. Actually the trip kinda seems over to me as I have done what I've always wanted to do. Going to the hot springs is just filler till Saturday. I'm really tired tonight. Didn't eat enough today - so got 'alien'. Ate two dinners tonight and drank lots of water so felt human again. Burned all our trash tonight so pack will be lighter. Time for sleep. Another huge day tomorrow. Down to Hell's Hole and up and over to the Meadows. About 12 miles I think. Ouch.

May 17, 2001 09:52	A rocky outlook on the way up and out of Hell's Hole on the West Fork. Our last hard climb.
May 17, 2001 13:24	Woodland Meadow. A place with many memories for all of us. In fact this was the destination of the first trip Steve and I ever took together. We fill up with water and rest up. After looking at the map Jim and Pierre decide to cut several miles off the trail and go cross-country to the trail that will take us down to the Middle Fork. Steve and I, veterans of past cross-country adventures, decide to take the trail and see who comes out ahead.
May 17, 2001 15:16	So...... we run into a pack of people at Prior Cabin where the trail junction is. We don't feel like meeting a bunch of folks, and we've both been here before..... hell.... we don't need go all the way down there among those yahoos to see the trail sign. And this picture is where our 'trail' peters out and guess what..... we are going cross-country anyway. And we aren't lost, we do a little map/compass orientating and get back to the main trail in an hour or so. Anxious? Yep, for a little while.... but not lost!!! And yeppers..... the younger members of our crew got to the trailhead a few hours before we did. But we have better stories.

Trip Diary Entry: Thursday, May 17 9:35pm The Meadows - Middle Fork Gila River

Made it. Barely! Had no energy this morning. But after lunch at Woodland Park I was afire! We discussed either going to The Meadows zigzag via the trail or a cross-country shortcut. Steve and I chose the trail. Several miles longer but easier to walk. The other 2 chose the other. Agreed to meet us at specific junction. Steve and I got to Prior Cabin and saw lots of folks there. Also met two folks with mules on the trail. They were VERY evasive so we figure they are 'feeding the wolf folks' as the wolves have moved into this area. Steve and I took what we thought was the trail out of Prior (most signs up here are gone) but soon the trail disappeared. We took off cross-country with map and compass. Kinda fun - kinda scary. Took us about 1 1/2 hours to find the trail again. Whew! The others got to the meeting place 2 hours ahead of us. Live and learn! Too funny. We decided not to mention getting lost to the others. Not for a few years anyway! LOL! This morning I was not in a very good mood. So I had to kick myself and make the best of it as to not be a drag to the others. Imagine me, ready to leave the Gila!!! Getting lost surely got me into high gear. Made a quick trip to the Meadows. Felt good after being pretty slow most of the trip. Met a gay couple camped at The Meadows. Seemed afraid of us at first, but talked with them enough to reassure them I think. They've been to some of the same spots we have - just going different directions. Can't believe how filthy I got today. Took a bath - had the whole river to myself. Was nice. Oh - saw 4 elk while we were 'lost'. That was great!!

May 18, 2001 08:06	Our camp in the Meadows on the Middle Fork. Notice the Tarp Dwellers are now arguing about take-down methods. Steve and I kinda take our time as we always end up waiting on them to get their stuff together. ;-)
May 18, 2001 16:41	The traditional campsite directly above the hot springs. And also our last night. So we are helping each other eat everything that is left in our packs. A truly great experience. We also meet four young folks from Michigan who are just starting their adventure. The fact that the two young ladies strip down to their skivvies to enjoy the hot tub while we are scarfing down our extra food doesn't even faze us old, tired, trail-hardened veterans.
May 18, 2001 20:02	The hot spring. Jim and Pierre ran off everybody else. Something about bubbles and cigars.

Trip Diary Entry: Friday, May 18 8:30pm Jordan Hot Springs - Middle Fork Gila River

Nice day. Steve and I just slowly walking down the river. Talked a lot and just enjoyed the canyon. Both of us pretty homesick for our wives. Spent most of the afternoon in the hot spring solving the world's problems. Tonight was 'gorge' night where we all share in eating everything left in our packs except breakfast. We plan to leave by 7am in order to be out by 10am. What a trip!

May 19, 2001 08:44

End of The Trip. On the last leg of the trail out where your wilderness slowly transitions into something tamer, but is forever a part of you, calling you back.

Have you ever seen two more grizzled looking old farts? Thanks for sharing such an adventure with me Steve. I haven't the words.

Ready to go again? I thought so!